Grade A, B, C: Everything you need to know about vintage clothing

A story behind every piece

You open your first lot of vintage clothing and quickly notice that not every piece is in the same condition. Some are nearly new, others show signs of wear, and a few have been through a few rough patches.

To make sense of it, the second-hand trade classifies clothing into grades: A, B and C. Understanding them tells you what you are buying, how much work lies ahead and how to price each piece. One thing first: grading is not an official standard. Every wholesaler writes its own scale, so always read the definition behind the letter. Here is ours, in line with industry practice.

Second-hand quality grades

The trade uses other words too: “cream” or “first choice” for the top of the range, “second choice” or “B quality” for grade B, and “original” for bulk that has not been graded yet.

Grade A: top of the range

Grade A covers pieces in very good overall condition. A recent piece is close to new: wear does not show, and it sometimes still carries its original tags. A vintage piece keeps the marks of its age without dropping a grade:

• natural fading or patina;
• a pulled thread or micro-snag;
• light pilling;
• light cracking on a print;
• light wear on the inner collar;
• a micro-stain away from the central areas;
• a redone hem or shortened jeans;
• a missing button on a sleeve.

It is the grade that goes online fastest, the one vintage shops and resellers working with standout pieces look for.

But be careful: grade A does not mean new. Even in a grade A lot, expect slight variation from piece to piece, and plan for washing, steaming and good photos before listing. That preparation is part of a reseller’s work, whatever the grade.

Grade B: the in-between

Grade B covers sellable pieces that show more wear than grade A: a few visible flaws, or a series of small ones, that remain acceptable for resale. Flaws accepted in grade B:

• a small stain under 1 cm;
• a small hole under 1 cm, away from the central areas (middle of the front or back);
• light wear away from the central areas;
• pilling;
• slightly oxidised buttons, or one or two missing buttons;
• slack elastic;
• a faded inner collar;
• a jumper slightly shrunk in the wash.

Grade B is not waste: it is raw material to work on. The right wash, a fabric shaver, a replaced button or a few stitches bring many pieces back up to standard. Those that keep a flaw sell at a lower price, with a photo of the flaw in the listing: a buyer who has been told rarely opens a dispute. This grade is often favoured by thrift stores that play on the charm of lived-in pieces.

Tip: some grade B pieces are very easy to save. A quick trip to the dry cleaner’s or a small alteration can restore their full value. For a step-by-step method, read our guide to sorting and restoring a branded jacket bale.

Grade C: the choice of recycling and upcycling

Grade C covers pieces with at least one major flaw:

• large, greasy or widespread stains;
• sweat marks;
• clean holes or tears;
• a broken or stuck zip;
• open seams;
• worn-out elastic;
• deformation that cannot be fixed, such as a stretched collar or a twisted garment;
• a damp or sweat smell;
• heavy shrinkage in the wash.

These pieces mostly go to recycling, customisation or upcycling, and appeal to designers and brands giving textiles a second life. If you are into customisation or DIY, grade C can be a real gold mine. At TAGZ, our formats are listed as grade A and grade B: we do not sell grade C lots.

Grade B and C: an asset for workwear and certain brands

While grade A remains the benchmark for most vintage clothing, some categories are exceptions. Workwear (Carhartt, Dickies, Levi’s, Wrangler…) and some military pieces gain character with wear. Signs of use, fading and visible repairs are part of their authenticity and their market value.

A pair of Carhartt jeans with work marks or a slightly worn military jacket often does better than one that looks too new.

This is why, in these categories, grades B and C remain fully usable for resale: many buyers look for that patina that tells a story. To get started in this niche, see our Carhartt and Dickies pants by the kilo.

What each TAGZ format states

At TAGZ, every product page shows its grade split. It is an average that varies a little from lot to lot: read it before you buy, as it tells you how many pieces you will need to restore.

• Our boxes: about 80% grade A and 20% grade B on average, with a capped share of grade B. The format that asks for the least sorting. See our boxes
• Our Kilo Deals: sold by weight, with the grade split shown on each product page. See our clothing by the kilo
• Our bales: sold as they come, with about 70% grade A and 30% grade B on average, varying from bale to bale. The format with the lowest price per piece, in exchange for the most sorting, washing and preparation on your side. See our clothing bales

Human error and the sorting margin

Clothing is sorted by people, and with the volumes handled every day, a margin of error is inevitable. Now and then, a piece of a lower grade slips through the net and ends up in a lot. Wholesalers who take transparency seriously state this margin, often up to 10% of the contents.

Two figures not to confuse:

• the share of grade B stated on the product page: it is part of the lot, planned for, and yours to work on;
• the sorting margin: the few pieces that fall short of the stated grade by mistake.

To judge a lot, think in cost per resellable piece rather than price per kilo or per piece. A cheaper lot that yields half as many sellable pieces is not a good deal. Also keep some room for manoeuvre in your selling strategy: starting prices, bundles of pieces with small flaws, recycling what does not sell.

At TAGZ, the grade split shown on the product page is an average. If your lot is clearly off, write to us with a few photos: we accept that mistakes can happen and we are here to help if something is wrong.

Why choose TAGZ for your purchases?

At TAGZ, we know what a reseller expects from a wholesaler: to know what is coming, and to get it fast.

• A grade stated on every product page: the split between grade A and grade B is shown format by format, so you buy with full knowledge.
• A format for every way of working: boxes put together piece by piece if you want to limit sorting, Kilo Deals by weight, bales sold as they come if you want the lowest price per piece.
• Personal support: a question about a lot? Our team is here to guide you and help you make the right choices.
• Transparency we stand by: textile sorting is done by hand, mistakes can happen, we say so and we are here to help if something is wrong.
• Fast dispatch: shipped within 24/72 h from France, delivery to France, Monaco and the European Union.

Grade A, B, C: frequently asked questions

What does grade B mean for clothing?

Grade B clothing is sellable but shows visible wear: a small localised flaw (a stain or hole under 1 cm away from the central areas, a missing button) or several small flaws. It resells after a wash or a small repair, or as it is with the flaw shown in the listing.

What is the difference between grade A and grade B clothing?

A grade A piece shows no wear, or only the marks of age on a vintage piece. A grade B piece has visible but limited flaws that call for a little restoration or a lower price.

What is grade C clothing?

A piece with at least one major flaw: a large stain, a clean hole, a tear, a broken zip. It goes to recycling or upcycling, except in workwear, where wear can add value. TAGZ does not sell grade C lots.

Does a clothing bale contain grade B?

Yes. Our bales are sold as they come, with about 70% grade A and 30% grade B on average, varying from bale to bale. It is the format with the lowest price per piece, and the one that asks for the most sorting.

Is grade A the same at every wholesaler?

No. There is no official standard: every wholesaler writes its own scale. Compare the definitions and the share of grade B stated per format, not just the letter.

Should you wash grade A clothing before reselling it?

Usually, yes. Grade A does not mean new: washing, steaming and good photos are part of the preparation, whatever the grade. Our guide to selling fleeces in winter walks through that preparation, from sorting to photos.

Your stock starts here: pick your format from our boxes, our clothing by the kilo and our clothing bales, and check the grade split on each product page before you buy.

The TAGZ team